Though Thailand's second city, Chiang Mai is only a quarter of the size of Bangkok (measuring about 4 mls from N to S and E to W) and very different in character, striking a good balance between being the main commercial and administrative centre for the northern provinces and serving as the principal tourist gateway to the ethnic and natural attractions of the surrounding highlands. The compact 13th-century Old Town, occupying 1 sq ml at the city's heart, resides within a square created by the ancient and prominent city wall with its defensive moat and gates (including Tha Phae Gate on the E side). There are numerous historic temples and other sights of interest, both within the city wall and outside, although one of the main tourist attractions is the bargain-basement night market where the commercialism rivals that found in Bangkok.

Young backpackers through to mature tour groups.

A good selection of international-quality hotels, along with a wide selection of guesthouses, which offer anything from very basic home stays to upmarket accommodation with en-suite facilities. Most are within the limits of the main city, but some of the more interesting options are in the surrounding hills.

The principal shopping area is found along Tha Phae Road; local handicrafts and silk are the main specialities, along with some quality antique dealers, but caution is required as fakes and inferior products are prevalent. The night market has lots of fake designer items, souvenirs and trinkets, and although prices are low and some bargains are to be had, the old adage about getting what you pay for usually applies here as well. The many cottage handicraft industries in operation in the city and surrounding villages generally offer more rewarding purchases. Look out for hand-painted umbrellas, hand-made paper, textiles, lacquer work and ceramic work.

Daytime: numerous temples in and around the city, including the hilltop Wat Phra That Doi Suthep; a few museums; numerous short courses in Thai massage (the therapeutic version), cooking or crafts; several golf courses; tennis; go-karting; ice-skating rink; horse riding; mountain biking and hiking; local river trips; hot-air balloon flights (Oct to Feb); microlight flights. Just outside the city are a zoo, tribal research institute and other rural development projects. Water-throwing festival in April celebrates Thai New Year. Nightlife: the night market, bars and discos; most hotels provide live music and shows a couple of times a week. The seedier side of nightlife has spread from Bangkok, but the "go-go" bars and adult shows are well diluted, with no single centre for such activities.

Everything from street stalls and local eateries to quality restaurants offering Thai and Western cuisines.

Motorised rickshaws (tuk-tuks) and motorcycle taxis are readily available around the city, but fares should be negotiated beforehand. Standard taxis are also available by arrangement, usually operating from hotels, the airport etc, with fixed fares and no meter. Air-conditioned minibuses run to most centres in the northern provinces, but the service can be erratic. Rickety buses and smart modern coaches offer a 2-tier system to more distant destinations as far away as Bangkok.

Numerous tour companies bolt together 1- to 3-day itineraries for such diversions as treks to hill-tribe villages and around mountains (including Thailand's highest, Doi Inthanon), elephant trekking, bamboo-raft trips, scenic tours of the Golden Triangle, boat trips, visits to hot springs, orchid farms, craft centres, temples, waterfalls and national parks; river canoeing, kayaking or white-water rafting; 4-wheel-drive safari; nearby towns of Lampang and Lamphun. Single groups may set their own itineraries for a price, but there are plenty of less professional operations promising the earth at bargain prices but delivering disappointing results. Plenty of research and lots of questioning are needed before you commit yourself and part with hard cash. You also need to ensure you are well prepared before setting out to spend a few days well away from civilisation.

Inland, in the N of the country, close to the "Golden Triangle", where the borders of Thailand, Myanmar (formerly Burma) and Laos meet. 440 mls N of Bangkok. The international airport is 2½ mls SW of the centre.

In a broad, flat valley, mainly on the W flood plain of the Ping river, sprawling over onto the E bank. Mountains rise to the E and W, where 5,500-ft Mount Pui dominates the horizon; lower hills at some distance to the S.

Telephone Area Code: 53
Website: www.gochiangmai.com

Airport : International
Airport Code: CNX