Thailand's third largest island is still not spoilt by mass tourism, mainly thanks to the absence of charter flights and large aircraft at its tiny airport; most international passengers are required to travel via Bangkok, Phuket or Singapore to get there. It has a resident population of 35,000 and measures about 9 by 14 mls, although travelling along the circuitous coast road means distances are much greater than this suggests. This is a lush, tropical island with many white sandy beaches surrounding an interior of hills, rainforest and waterfalls. Coconut trees and plantations abound and coral reefs surround some 60% of the island's shoreline. The island attracts a wide range of visitors, from upmarket, high-spending tourists who appreciate the seclusion of the NE and SW coasts to beach-lovers and backpackers who make for Lamai and Chaweng. The locals are generally quite laid-back, friendly and ready to make the tourist feel welcome without being as obtrusive as in the more raucous areas of Bangkok and Phuket. The main tourist stretch is along the E coast, just S of the airport. Chaweng is the largest and most developed resort, hemmed in between a lake and a long narrow sandy beach. Farther S, fast-developing Lamai tends to attract a younger, fun-loving crowd seeking out the go-go bars, foam parties and Thai boxing. More relaxed, less developed resorts are found on the N-coast beaches of Mae Nam and Bo Phut, though the sea here is often not deep enough for swimming. The capital, Nathon, is of little interest other than for shopping and catching the ferry to the mainland.

Previously catering largely for backpackers, the opening of a number of luxury beachside hotels is attracting an increasing number of upmarket tourists. Generally most suitable for those seeking sun and sand in a tranquil rather than lively setting. Those wanting beaches and nightlife stay in Chaweng, while peace and quiet is the norm in the N and at the small, cove-hugging properties on the S coast.

From shared fan or air-conditioned rooms for rent through to 5-star beach hotels. All the main tourist spots have their allocation of low-cost accommodation, while the most upmarket properties are on the NE and SW corners of the island.

Chaweng Beach: on the E shore, the most developed beach with a range of hotels, bars and restaurants along either side of the narrow beachside road. Fine, white sand 2 mls long with a coral reef at the N end; water-sports equipment can be hired. Dangerous currents are known to exist at this and other beaches, but don't expect to find any warning notices. Sun loungers and parasols are provided at the main hotels for a small charge. Lamai Beach: on the E shore, S of Chaweng, around a hilly promontory, it consists of white sand some 1½ mls long. While not as developed as Chaweng, it is similarly served by hotels, bars and restaurants along a pot-holed and narrow road. Water-sports equipment can be hired. Bang Rak Beach: around a large promontory to the NW of Chaweng, a small, white sandy beach near the airport. The promontory separating Bang Rak from Chaweng is the location of several luxury hotels. Bo Phut Beach: ½ ml W of Bang Rak, a small, undeveloped, white sandy beach with a coral reef at its E end. Mae Nam Beach: less than ½ ml W of Bo Phut, the beach comprises over 1 ml of white sand, as yet sparsely developed with few or no facilities. Visitors to the beaches on Samui are rarely pestered by hawkers, apart from a few women offering traditional Thai massage.

Hundreds of shops selling sportswear, counterfeit watches and fake designer clothes. Also available are Thai handicrafts, silk and eco-friendly goods.

Daytime: water sports including snorkelling and scuba diving; walking and climbing; visits to waterfalls, temples and fishing villages; Cultural Hall at Lamai; monkey training school. Nightlife: most hotels provide some form of live music during peak periods; nightclubs, bars and drag shows in Chaweng.

Many small, open-air beachside restaurants in addition to those provided by hotels. Seafood abounds. Western fast-food chains in Chaweng as well as sophisticated, upmarket restaurants with correspondingly upmarket prices.

Songthaews (open-sided, shared taxi vans) operate regularly between the main tourist areas and are a popular form of transport with tourists and locals alike. Taxis are available outside major hotels; confirm the fare before boarding. Jeeps and motorcycles can be hired, but this is not recommended owing to the lack of adequate insurance, scams and the poor condition of the roads - accidents are frequent and hospital facilities are not to Western standards.

Private or organised trips to the Big Buddha statue, aquarium, butterfly farm, rainforest and waterfalls. By boat to the nearby islands of Pha Ngan, Tao and Nang Yuan, and farther afield to the Ang Thong Marine National Park. Visits to the mainland via Surat Thani.

45 mls into the Gulf of Thailand, E of the peninsula leading down to Malaysia; opposite the city of Surat Thani. 300 mls S of Bangkok. The main island resorts of Chaweng and Lamai start 4 mls SE of the island's tiny international airport. The capital, Nathon, is 12 mls W of the airport.

Part of the 80-island Samui Archipelago that includes the Ang Thong National Marine Park, 20 mls to the N.

Telephone Area Code: 77
Website: www.samuitourism.com

Airport : Koh Samui
Airport Code: USM