After Crete and Evia, the third largest of the Greek islands is very green, with no shortage of water yet in constant danger of forest fires. The average of 265 days of sunshine per year is the highest in Greece. July and Aug are subject to the Meltemi, the N wind which can be fierce on occasion, sandblasting sunbathers and sometimes resulting in ferry cancellations when it reaches force 9. The island has mountains in the middle with breathtaking views, high cliffs in the N, flat plains around the central resort of Skala Kallonis, fertile plains on the E side and salt flats to the W. It's famous for olive oil and ouzo. Thermal springs are gradually being brought back into use - those in Geras are considered the best; others are in Thermi, Livori and Eftalou. Unusually for a Greek island, it even has a few rivers. Proud of its history, its residents are reviving many ancient festivals, notably the Feast of St Ignatius in mid-Oct at Limonas Monastery. MITILINI, the main town, has a permanent population of 25,000 and is an unlovely sprawl of mixed architecture coupled with a fiendish one-way system. Its old harbour and nearby market are pleasant, however. Most tourism is centred on SKALA KALLONIS, the most central town, PETRA and MOLYVOS (Mithimna) in the NW, PLOMARI in the S and ERESSOS to the SW. The people are friendly, and it would be fair to say that tourism has not yet spoilt the island; although it is a major business, it is not the main source of income.

All ages and pockets; mainly European couples and young families wanting to avoid the 18 to 30 hordes associated with other major islands. Some Americans, Japanese and Australians.

Everything from luxury hotel complexes to small, family-run establishments, simple B&Bs, apartments, studios and basic campsites.

Mainly rocky, or gritty sand. Skala Kallonis and Skala Eressou are more sandy than others. Petra, Molyvos and Eftalou are mainly gritty. Other beaches at Mitilini, Plomari, Vatera, Skala Polychnitou and Sigri. Golden Beach beyond Eftalou is reached by footpath. Water sports are available at most; plentiful bars and tavernas.

Unsophisticated souvenirs and local handicrafts: leather, jewellery, ceramics; olive oil, ouzo, traditional cheeses; second-hand books; market goods.

Daytime: water sports; sightseeing, with abundant monasteries, historic churches, Roman rubble, museums; famous petrified forest (trees preserved by volcanic ash) at Eressos on the W coast; caves and the medieval hilltop castle at Molyvos; bird-watching on the salt plains near Skala Kallonis; taking the waters at the thermal springs; horse riding; tennis and volleyball at most resorts. Nightlife: more low-key than the more popular islands, although still with its own complement of discos, restaurants, bars and tavernas; one or two cinemas; festivals from time to time.

The emphasis is on traditional Greek fare, plus international choices or fast food (including souvlaki, pizzas and hamburgers). High-quality, abundant seafood is more reasonably priced than on most islands.

Buses from Mitilini to all other towns and beaches. Boats to Chios, Piraeus, Kavala, Thessaloniki and other islands (14-hr journeys are the norm). Regular flights to Athens, more in summer. Some boats to other beaches from Molyvos. Car, jeep, motorbike, mountain-bike hire are readily available, and the road system is generally good. Taxis are ubiquitous, cheap and will also pick up at the end of the day by arrangement.

Stork arrival and departure (Aug and March); Nissiotis Island; Turkey (1-, 2- and 3-day tours); beach picnics by boat; traditional villages (1 day); donkey safari (1 day); Molyvos by night; Mitilini by night; thermal springs.

In the NE Aegean Sea, only 7 mls off the Turkish coast. 120 mls N of Samos. 165 mls E of Skopelos. Mitilini, the main town and harbour, is 5 mls NW of Lesbos airport.

Telephone Area Code: 22530

Airport : Mytilene
Airport Code: MJT
Flight time from ther U.K.: 3 hrs. 30 mins