A laid-back island with little to get the pulse racing but plenty of room to relax. Samos is only 27 mls by 12, with a reasonably good road system, so touring is easy. It has central bare mountains rising above the Mediterranean pine forests and flat coastal plains. The island's highest mountain is Mt Kerkis (4,686 ft). The island is quite fertile, with rolling hills, vineyards, olive groves, small farms and beehives. Occasional military observation posts owe their existence to the proximity to Turkey. Samos was a wealthy island in classical times, until Athens became more powerful. It plodded along until the 15th century, when the Ottomans took control and ruled it until 1913. Its most famous native was the mathematician Pythagoras. Known for its wines, honey and other produce, the island is nevertheless very much geared to tourism. Most of the main holiday resorts are at the E end of the island and on the N and S coasts. SAMOS TOWN, at the NE corner of the island, is in a sheltered bay with a harbour. The commercial hub of the island, it has a lively, pleasant centre with both tourist attractions and administrative buildings. A long, developing promenade sweeps around the bay and a maze of steep, narrow streets extends up the hillside from the harbour. KOKKARI, farther W along the N coast, is a sheltered village backed by forests, olive groves and mountains and surrounded by vineyards on flat land. Once a pretty fishing village but now given over to tourism, it abounds in waterside tavernas, residential areas and hotels. It has a livelier atmosphere than most resorts here, with a couple of nightclubs attracting the younger set. The village of KARLOVASI sits by itself towards the W end of the N coast, backed by mountains and forests. It has three distinct areas: a small picturesque harbour with waterfront tavernas and a fish market; a bleak easterly straggle of hotels, shops and ruined buildings opposite the long gritty beach; and the unattractive new town away from the coast with shops, garages, banks, hotels and houses. KAMBOS/VOTSALAKIA is a simple, relaxed tourist settlement straddling the quiet coast road in the SW of the island, backed by large barren mountains. It has a distinct holiday feel about it but little local flavour, except in its many restaurants. Its isolated position will suit serious sun, sea and relaxation aficionados. The popular SE coast consists of a flat plain with a natural sheltered harbour at PYTHAGORION. The village was built on the site of ancient Samos, and the remains of the original walls and towers are still visible. Pythagorion has a picturesque harbour and small, pretty streets that straggle uphill behind the main town. A ribbon of development links it to POTOKAKI, a thin, characterless line of hotels, pensions and tavernas between the beach and airport perimeter. Occasional aircraft noise is, naturally, noticeable.

For those seeking peace and relaxation. Predominantly middlemarket couples although families are catered for.

Mainly small, family-run properties, with a handful of larger upmarket choices usually found outside of town. A good range of modest establishments can be found in the tourist settlements around Potokaki and in Kambos, with more sophisticated options near the towns of Samos and Pythagorion.

Predominantly pebbles; not for those in search of sand. Those near Samos are small and sheltered. Kokkari's is long and narrow, and there are further small bays along the N coast. Pythagorion relies on the broad stretch at Potokaki. Kambos' is long and fairly narrow. Other small bays are dotted around the island. Water sports available at major beaches.

All the villages have the usual grocery stores and other practical shops. Plenty of wine, souvenir and jewellery shops in the main destinations, while Samos and Pythagorion also cater to the locals. Local ceramics are a popular buy.

Daytime: archaeological and Byzantine museums; monasteries, including the 11th-century Metamorphosis Sotiros near Karlovasi; caves; churches; water sports; walking; the 6th-century BC Eupalinus tunnel (an underground aqueduct through the middle of a mountain); the Temple of Hera, the largest ancient temple in Greece (5 miles outside Pythagorion). Go-karting centre. Cycling. Nightlife: handful of discos; plenty of bars and cafes; open-air cinema.

Traditional Greek, with a bit of a Turkish tinge to some of the tavernas; fish, souvlaki, salads, pizzas, fast food; a few international restaurants including Chinese and a creperie. Local specialities include sausages, honey and a very sweet, syrupy red wine. Plenty of choice with reasonably priced food; most restaurants are clustered around the waterfronts in the different towns and villages.

Regular bus service between major centres in the E; infrequent to the W resorts. Taxis are plentiful, reasonably priced and metered. Some boats and ferries between towns; boat service to Patmos and Turkey.

Island of Patmos - St John's monastery. Turkey - Kusadasi and Ephesus. Island tour - sights and visits to honey and ceramics centres. Jeep safari. Boat cruises. Greek evening with dinner and local entertainment.

In the E extremity of the Aegean Sea, just 1½ mls off the Turkish coast. 22 mls NE of the island of Patmos and 12 mls NE of the island of Ikaria. Samos Town is 10 mls NE of the island's airport.

Part of the province of Samos, which includes a handful of smaller neighbouring islands.

Telephone Area Code: 22730

Airport : Samos
Airport Code: SMI
Flight time from ther U.K.: 3 hrs. 30 mins