The island's history is the typical Greek-island story of a succession of conquerors and occupiers; it did not become part of Greece until 1829. In the early 1960s it was conquered again - by tourists. A couple of British entrepreneurs bought a strip of land and sold plots for holiday villas, and the influx began. These days the coast road in the S and E is lined by tourist accommodation and facilities, which in the high season can be extremely crowded. The residents, formerly primarily fishermen, are now usually employed keeping the hordes fed and housed. Away from the modern development, the island is known for its shady pine, plane, olive and walnut trees and for its grape vines. It is hilly, rising to a maximum elevation of 1,416 ft. Although Skiathos is only 7½ mls by 4 mls, its coastline is much indented, with dozens of sandy beaches - more per mile of coastline than on any other Aegean island. SKIATHOS TOWN, on the SE coast, is built on two hills overlooking the harbour. It is a relatively modern, small but bustling port dating mainly from the 1830s, with 2- and 3-storey white houses with red roofs climbing from the waterfront to the cathedral. MEGALI AMOS is almost a suburb of the capital. It is a modern village backed by hills, pine woods and olive groves. KOUKOUNARIES, at the SW corner of the island, is spread out at the end of the coast road. It is nothing more than a beach resort clustered around a truly outstanding stretch of sand. TROULOS, the nearest thing to a second "village" on the island, is at the middle of the S coast, surrounded by olive groves and farmland. AGHIA PARASKEVI, on the S coast, is made up of well-spaced hotels and apartments at the end of a wide valley with farmland and olive groves. KANAPITSA is Skiathos's upmarket area. It sits on the S coast between the Kalamaki Peninsula and Achladies Bay. ACHLADIES, E of the Kalamaki Peninsula, is modern and backed by hills.

Middlemarket, families and couples. Younger singles prefer Megali Amos.

Small hotels, apartments, studios and some villas. Most self-catering accommodation, in small blocks, is on the S coast. Only a handful of hotels have 100 or more rooms.

Rockier in the N, larger and sandier in the S, which is why tourists flock to the S coast. Water sports and tavernas can be found at all the major beaches, which tend to be between 600 yards and a mile long. Numerous smaller beaches; the island is said to have 66 beaches in all. NE-facing beaches are exposed to the wind, which can be a disadvantage unless you're a windsurfer (in which case head for Kanapitsa). Koukounaries, ¾ of a mile long and of fine sand, is said to be one of the best beaches in Greece. Nearby is Banana Beach, the favourite of nudists.

Most resorts have a supermarket or two and perhaps a minimarket. There is a wider selection in Skiathos Town, with jewellery, alcohol, leather and lace.

Daytime: monasteries, particularly Evangelistria (the most attractive, with lovely views); Kastro, a ruined village; Papadiamantis museum, home of a 19th-century Greek writer, in Skiathos Town; walking; water sports; horse riding near Troulos. Nightlife: discos; live music and Greek dancing in tavernas.

Most resorts have nothing but tavernas or Greek fast food. Skiathos Town offers souvlaki kiosks, ouzerias, traditional tavernas, fish restaurants, upmarket Greek restaurants, French, Italian, Chinese and English (with curry!). Grilled fish at a beachside taverna is a typical local experience.

Buses (regular service between Skiathos Town and Koukounaries). Taxis are plentiful, relatively cheap and exciting. Boats from the harbour to Achladies, Kanapitsa, Koukounaries and Banana Beaches. Cars, motorbikes, mopeds, mountain bikes and boats for hire.

Round-island mule trips or boat trips; boat trips to Tsoungria (tiny island) for beach; or to Skopelos and Alonissos (day trip); beach barbecue cruises; evening sunset or fishing cruises; Athens (day trip); Delphi (day trip); Meteora, with Byzantine monasteries (day trip).

In the Sporades group of islands, just 3 mls off the mainland coast in the Aegean Sea.

At the W end of the Sporades group of islands. 5 miles W of Skopelos and 9 miles N of Evia. Skiathos Town, the capital, is 1 mile SW of the airport.

Telephone Area Code: 24270
Website: www.n-skiathos.gr

Airport : Skiathos
Airport Code: JSI
Flight time from ther U.K.: 3 hrs