One of Italy's most popular tourist destinations, Amalfi offers a temperate climate, impressive coastal scenery and a compact, picturesque centre of narrow, sloping streets, gracefully ageing white-render houses and lots of steps. There's little hint that this was one of the first Italian maritime powers - rivalling Pisa, Genoa and Venice for control of the Mediterranean and trade with the East - before it was conquered by the Normans in 1131, sacked by the Pisans in 1135 and finally devastated by an earthquake in 1343, at which time it quickly slid into insignificance. Its fortunes began to revive in the early 1900s, when it became a popular winter resort for the British upper classes. A very busy coast road runs through the town, which measures ¼ ml from N to S and E to W and whose centre is dominated by the Cathedral (or duomo) of St Andrews. Bustling cafes and concessions line the modern seafront promenade, which overlooks the narrow beach and moored boats in the small harbour. At the SE point stands the tower of Amalfi, an ancient look-out point. Cars need special passes to enter the historic centre; otherwise they are limited to the coast road.

For middlemarket lovers of scenery and culture. For walkers, there's a system of footpaths (some steep) lacing the Sorrento/Amalfi peninsula and the mountains. Some of the resort's gradients may not be suited to those with mobility difficulties.

Mostly hotels, some with real character. Most are located outside the historic centre, in outstandingly scenic situations. Some of the oldest hotels in Italy, from 5-star luxury to homely 2-star B&Bs.

Safe swimming from a highly organised beach of light grey sand. The water is good and clear.

The pedestrianised, cobbled main street leading inland is flanked by small shops selling food, gifts, ceramics, beachwear, leather goods and typical Italian handicrafts. A few workshops on the spot. Limoncello (lemon liqueur) is a regional speciality; handmade paper is a town speciality.

Daytime: lazing on the beach or watching the world go by from one of the numerous cafes on the sea front or the cathedral square. Exploring the town, including the 11th-century cathedral, the associated "Cloister of Paradise" with its arches and palm-tree-inspired decoration, a museum housing medieval and ecclesiastical treasures, and an old Gothic arsenal. Religious celebrations throughout the year; art exhibitions, concerts and folk celebrations in July and Aug. Historic regatta first Sunday in June. Water-skiing; windsurfing. Nightlife: quiet. A few nightspots tucked away; 1 nightclub. Some hotels have piano bars.

Choice of nearly 30 restaurants and pizzerias. Some of the hotels have formal restaurants. Seafood aplenty.

Regular buses along the coast to Salerno, Positano, Ravello and Sorrento (progress is slow, owing to hairpin bends and the narrowness of the road). Early-morning boat to Sorrento. Ferries and hydrofoils to Salerno, Positano, Capri and Ischia from the tiny harbour. Taxis. Scooter and car hire.

Half day: Grotta dello Smeraldo, with its amazing stalactites; Ravello, with its churches, villas and glorious coastal views; spectacular coastal drive from Castellamare to Minori, taking in picturesque villages. Full day: shopping in Naples; nearby Vesuvius and ancient Roman ruins at Pompeii and Herculaneum; ancient site of Paestum; islands of Capri and Ischia.

Almost a third of the way up the boot of Italy, on the Gulf of Salerno. 16 mls SW of Salerno, 21 mls NE of Sorrento, 5 mls SW of Ravello. 170 mls SE of Rome. 39 mls SE of Naples and its airport.

Facing S, on the mountainous peninsula separating the gulfs of Salerno and Naples. The town straggles up a steep, terraced valley dominated by rugged, wooded mountains.

Post Code: 84011
Website: www.amalfi.it

Airport : Capodichino
Airport Code: NAP
Flight time from ther U.K.: 2 hrs. 30 mins