One of the 3 original villages in Italy (together with Claviere and Sauze d'Oulx) where modern skiing was invented and first taught at the end of the 19th century by the Swiss engineer Adolfo Kind and the Smith brothers (after whom the resort's main lift is named). About 1 ml across, the resort climbs gently up a pine-covered, S-facing slope towards the Borgo Vecchio or "Old Village", with its massive church, narrow lanes and mix of both dilapidated and refurbished ancient buildings. On the opposite side lies the other old area around the railway station with clearly mid-19th-century buildings still standing. The part in between, including the principal street (Via Medail), dates from the late 1920s and has some elegant villas now, sadly, mixed in with more modern apartment blocks from the 50s and 60s. Overall the village has a rather refined, well-to-do look and feel about it which its 3,000 inhabitants would do well to preserve, as it is now almost totally dependent on tourism.

Will suit all levels of skier, with both good nursery slopes and long, difficult black runs on the Jafferau area. Much favoured by the British as well as Italians and French. Lack of raucous nightlife makes it more attractive to families and couples than singles.

25 hotels, many of which are only 1-star (and not used by tour operators), up to the resort's only 4-star. Though many are family run, they have the feel, decor and professionalism of town hotels rather than the rustic, folksy accommodation found in many other village resorts. Self catering is also available. Some hotels are run on a club basis with full entertainment programme. Others are completely run by UK tour operators with British staff.

The main street for shops is the slightly sloping, one-way Via Medail, a pleasant ¼-ml stretch of small, stylish boutiques for clothes, shoes, gifts, local specialities, jewellery, leather goods and perfume. This strip also offers a bank, exchange bureau and British newspapers as well as local shops for the residents.

Daytime: besides downhill skiing, there's cross-country skiing, tobogganing, ice-skating, indoor tennis, bowls and swimming pool with gym and sauna; skateboarding track; museum. Nightlife: no discos but plenty of bars, including a beer hall and wine bar; hotels provide entertainment, several offering live music; cinema, if your Italian is good; amusement arcade; pool rooms.

Eight or so Italian restaurants and pizzerias in and around the centre. A couple of better-quality restaurants offering local specialities at Mezelet and in the Borgo Vecchio (old village). Several creperies. Refreshment is also available on and at the bottom of the slopes.

Ski-bus running every 20 mins (free with ski-pass) links all the lifts on either side of the resort, with stops along Via della Vittoria. A normal public bus does a more circuitous route round the town to Campo Smith but not to the other ski-lifts.

No formal programme in winter. Tour-operator reps may organise days out to other ski-areas and certainly offer evenings out to the livelier nightlife of Sauze d'Oulx.

In NW Italy, on the extreme W edge of its Piemonte region, in Torino province. At the top of the Susa Valley, where both motorway and railway enter their respective Frejus tunnels into France. 8 mls from nearest town of Oulx. 54 mls W of Turin, 138 mls SW of Milan airports.

On gently sloping terrain at the bottom of a wide, high valley where 3 small rivers join up to form the Torrente Bardonecchia. Mountains on all sides are far enough away to give a more open feel than in many alpine resorts.

Post Code: 10052
Website: www.comune.bardonecchia.to.it

Airport : Caselle
Airport Code: TRN
Flight time from ther U.K.: 1 hr. 45 mins