Bologna is an attractive, vibrant, cosmopolitan and prosperous city with a medieval heritage to rival that of the more renowned Venice or Florence. Affectionate nicknames aptly describe its varied character and appeal: "the learned" (for its university, one of the oldest in the Western world); "the fat" (for its rich culinary traditions); and "the red" (both for its striking terracotta-tiled rooftops and brickwork and for the left-wing leanings of many of its nearly 400,000 citizens). Surprisingly, for all its gastronomic delights, architectural treasures and youthful university student population, it has been largely overlooked by tourists. Most of interest to leisure visitors lies within the ring road, which follows the ancient walls and forms a boundary to the fairly compact city centre (1½ mls by 1¼ mls). The vast square of Piazza Maggiore is the focus of the well-preserved historical core of charming old lanes, many of which are pedestrianised. The city is particularly noted for its superb vaulted walkways and 25 mls of porticoed streets. The lively university quarter hosts many cafes, nightspots and trattorias. As one of Europe's largest exhibition venues, Bologna receives a fair number of business visitors. The city is also a good base from which to explore surrounding towns and countryside. Many locals themselves head for the cooler hills of the Apennines in the summer, and late spring/early autumn are good times to visit.

Primarily business travellers and convention-goers. Increasing numbers of backpackers and weekenders. Those interested in medieval architecture, brickwork, churches, culture, art and food. Good base for exploring Emilia-Romagna province and the Apennines.

Mostly middlemarket options concentrated in the centre, by the railway station and around the trade-fair complex in the N suburbs. Availability is limited and prices high during the city's many trade fairs and exhibitions. Generally good quality. Many characterful, traditional-style choices.

From speciality food shops along Via Drapperie to designer boutiques, there's quality and variety. Top fashion outlets line the narrow lanes around Piazza Maggiore, more affordable options along the Via dell'Indipendenza thoroughfare and bargains aplenty in the university district. Several food markets and antique shops worth browsing.

Daytime: numerous medieval churches, including San Petronio (huge brick-built Gothic edifice), San Stefano (a collection of Romanesque churches) and San Giacomo Maggiore (impressive frescoes); museums of art, astronomy and archaeology, notably Palazzo Poggi with numerous themed exhibits; Asinelli tower (one of 2 leaning towers) for a stunning city panorama - though you have to climb 500 steps to see it; walking tours embracing piazzas, palazzos (mansions), gardens and beautiful porticoed walkways. Nightlife: open-air concerts during the summer arts festival, together with dance and theatre performances in some piazzas and courtyards (August generally quiet); several live-music venues and popular bars in the animated university district, where things start gearing up late in the evening; stylish bars in the centre, with many traditional pub-like "osterias" in the narrow lanes; multiscreen cinema (though English-language films are rare); piazza cafes for people watching and pricey drinks.

Eating out in Bologna is a favourite local pastime. From top restaurants to traditional trattorias, quality is high and fresh pastas (particularly tortelli and tortellini) are a speciality. Relatively good value, but more expensive in the centre; many cheaper options in the university district.

The compact, largely pedestrianised historical centre makes for easy walking and cycle hire is popular. An efficient network of buses throughout (tickets purchased in advance from newsstands and tobacconists). Good rail links to major Italian cities and regional towns. Car hire available at the airport.

Half day: hills around Bologna for walks, scenery and cooler summer temperatures; superb portico at the Madonna di San Luca shrine. Full day: exploring the region's many towns, such as affluent Parma, with its fine restaurants, Ferrara and Modena (both medieval cities); villages and countryside in the foothills of the Apennines, such as charming Vignola and Zocca, and the spa town of Porretta Terme; Verona; Florence. Two days: Rimini (popular Adriatic resort); nature parks and beaches of the Po delta; Tuscany's beautiful scenery and villages.

In N Italy, 200 mls N of the capital, Rome. 90 mls SW of Venice. 60 mls N of Florence. 60 mls NW of Rimini. Small Marconi international airport is 5 mls NW of the centre.

Occupying flat land between the rivers Reno and Savena. Backed by the northern foothills of the Apennine Mountains, with the wide, fertile plains of the Po basin spreading out to the N.

Website: www.iperbole.bologna.it/bolognaturismo

Airport : Guglielmo Marconi
Airport Code: BLQ
Flight time from ther U.K.: 2 hrs