In spite of Napoleon Bonaparte's brief exile here before he met his Waterloo, this unspoiled island remains one of Italy's best-kept secrets. Rugged hillsides are covered with thick luxuriant vegetation (known as "maquis"), often impenetrable with not a path or building to be seen. Impressive mountains rise to 3,000 ft at both the E and W ends of the island. Although only 16 mls E to W and 11 mls N to S, it appears impervious to the ravages of international mass tourism. Seaside villages like Procchio, Narciana Marina, Marina di Campo and Porto Azzurro have retained their simple identities. The main town, Portoferraio, is the principal point of entry but remains predominantly residential. A fortified old town occupies a small headland that guards the harbour and its small waterfront is lined with commercial buildings and some bars.

Middle- to upmarket Italians during July and Aug, many of them occupying discreet family villas with vast natural gardens. Germans are attracted by cycling, trekking and the numerous diving and snorkelling opportunities around the coast.

Luxury hotels dominate but there is a fair choice of simple family pensions, B&Bs and apartments. Prices tend to be high.

The verdant coastline is littered with small, picturesque rocky coves and tempting beaches which turn out to be more small pebbles than sand. Some sandy beaches on the E and S sides of the island have a Robinson Crusoe quality. The most popular beaches with amenities are Bioldolo, Procchio, Marino di Campo, Lacona and Naregno; all are safe for swimming.

Main villages and towns have small supermarkets and a market on a particular day of the week. A few boutiques and shops selling local souvenirs made from stone, coral, cork or olive wood and basketwork.

Daytime: exploring Portoferraio; numerous hilltop fortifications and several ancient villas purporting to have been Napoleon's former residence during his year-long exile; botanical gardens; disused iron-ore mine; health spa; beach and various water sports. Nightlife: generally low-key except during July and Aug; 1 or 2 nightspots and bars, open until the small hours in the main villages.

Unsophisticated restaurants, pizzerias and trattorias. Seafood is abundant as are various forms of locally made pasta. Local specialities include cacciucco (fish soup) and sportella, an aniseed-flavoured bread. Elban wines are most respectable.

Regular buses link the principal villages with Portoferraio, with a few extra services during high season. Taxis, though pricey, are more convenient for evening journeys in search of entertainment. Regular daily ferries and hydrofoils cross principally between Portoferraio and the mainland. Small local airport for light aircraft.

Boat trips around the coast including some glass-bottomed boats. Choice of historic hillside fortifications, ancient churches and Napoleonic residences such a Palazzina de Mulini and Villa di San Martino.

7 mls off the W coast of Tuscany. 32 mls NE of Corsica. 165 mls NW of Rome. 1-hr ferry ride from the port of Piombino; less by hydrofoil.

The largest and most central island in the Tuscan Archipelago, in the clear waters of the Tyrrhenian Sea between the mainland peninsula and the French island of Corsica. It is dominated by mountainous regions at its E and W ends.

Post Code: 57031
Website: www.turismo.toscana.it

Airport : G Galilei
Airport Code: PSA
Flight time from ther U.K.: 2 hrs 15 mins