An ancient Roman town, an important medieval trading and political centre and birthplace of the composer Puccini, it remains one of the few towns in Italy that still has its defensive fortifications intact. The broad ramparts are now heavily tree-lined, and there is a paved public promenade and cycle path that encircles the old town. Inside the walls lies a living museum of 14th- to 19th-century low-rise terracotta-roofed stone houses, villas, secret gardens and quiet courtyards, woven together by narrow, predominantly traffic-free, labyrinthine cobbled streets and alleyways that converge on several impressive piazzas. The most notable of these squares is Piazza San Michele with its imposing white limestone medieval church built on the site of the former Roman forum. Hidden inside many of the crumbling façades is a treasure trove of antiquities and art. The tourist office provides state-of-the-art mobile information phones in 3 languages to assist independent tours.

For history buffs and discerning tourists wishing to discover one of Tuscany's most impressive historic towns.

Large number of 2- and 3-star hotels and pensions, although only a handful are situated inside the city walls. Several quietly placed upmarket villas in the countryside and villages outside town.

Limited to a few upmarket designer boutiques and numerous souvenir outlets in the old town. Nearby Pisa is a much better prospect.

Daytime: various small museums; plethora of historic ecclesiastical monuments and ancient villas, many containing valuable works of art. Nightlife: low-key. Various unsophisticated cafes and bars augmented by one or two smarter restaurants in the old town.

Fairly limited in the old town. Only a handful of proper a la carte restaurants, although there are many little cafes and snack bars tucked away in the labyrinthine streets. Several unsophisticated alternatives beyond the ramparts.

Dedicated yellow "Clap" shuttle buses serve the outlying modern suburbs, as well as providing limited transportation to 3 or 4 principal points inside the city walls. Regular service to Pisa and Viareggio. Plenty of metered taxis, although some parts of the old centre are traffic-free.

Pisa (day); Viareggio (day); Montecatini Terme (day); Florence (full day).

In NW Italy in the heart of Tuscany. 14 mls E of Viareggio; 19 mls W of Montecatini Terme. 13 mls NE of Pisa and Galileo Galilei airport.

In a relatively broad, flat valley fringed by terraced countryside of olive groves and vineyards.

Website: www.enit.it

Airport : G Galilei
Airport Code: PSA
Flight time from ther U.K.: 2 hrs. 15 mins