Owing to its strategically important location on the Bosphorus Strait, a key geographical division between Europe and Asia, Istanbul down through the ages has been fought over by a succession of great powers; the Greeks, the Romans, the Crusaders (who plundered the city in 1204) and most recently the Ottomans have all left their marks, from ruins of pagan temples and impressive centuries-old churches to ornately decorated mosques. Turkey's largest city, Istanbul measures roughly 7 mls by 7 mls and encompasses a collection of diverse areas. In the Old City, the ancient districts of Sultanahmet, Beyazit and Eminonu perhaps hold the greatest allure for tourists, owing to their high concentrations of world-famous historic buildings. Across the estuary known as the Golden Horn lie Beyoglu, the one-time haunt of 19th-century European aristocrats, and neighbouring Taksim, Istanbul's "downtown", where many of the city's largest hotels and conference centres are located. On the opposite shore of the Strait lies the Asian side of Istanbul, which is less developed and more relaxed. This mixture of old and new reminds the visitor that this is not a museum, but a living, evolving community, the country's focus of trade, enterprise and commerce, all of which have contributed to modern-day traffic jams, international-style skyscrapers and air pollution. As its population has nearly doubled to 15 million people in the past 30 years (many of the new arrivals being poorer country folk), so have the slums grown. Not necessarily a picture postcard from all perspectives, Istanbul nevertheless holds a fascination all its own.

Chaos, decay and the unrelenting press of humanity may bother many visitors, but the rich mix of cultures, exotic architecture and genuine patina of age will prove fascinating to most history and sightseeing-inclined clients.

First-class hotels mainly in the modern commercial area of Taksim and the N suburbs. Wide choice includes good representation in the middle category and some charming smaller lodgings in old Ottoman houses, often overlooking the seaways. Dense concentration of middle and budget hotels in the Laleli and Aksaray districts of the Old Town - an area of bazaars where tourists should take extra care.

All beaches close to Istanbul are dirty, polluted and not recommended. The beaches of the Princes' Islands (reachable by boat) are more rewarding, though subject to serious overcrowding.

In the Grand Bazaar, 4,000 shops offer all kinds of items made of copper, brass, gold, stone, leather and glazed earthenware, as well as books, carpets, jewellery and clothing. Old-style bargaining prevails; a critical eye is needed to spot the junk and a tough hide to ignore the persistent hawkers and vendors. Modern, fashionable shops near Taksim, on pedestrianised Istiklal Caddesi. Bargains to be had at Karakoy and the Egyptian market at Eminonu.

Daytime: endless sightseeing attractions, including the dreamily spired Sultanahmet (Blue) Mosque and the adjacent Hippodrome where chariots once raced; the Ottoman palace of Topkapi overlooking the Golden Horn; Yedikule fortress; countless mosques and museums, especially the St Sophia (Ayasofya) situated in an immense domed basilica. The choice is so extensive that visitors are advised to study a good guidebook to avoid missing the many historic and architectural gems. Planning ahead is essential, as it is easy to get lost in the narrow streets of the Old City. Nightlife: a cosmopolitan city but essentially an Islamic one. Western-style discos and bars abound in Taksim and nearby neighbourhoods such as Galatasary and Galata.

Cheap eats in the vicinity of the Blue Mosque; seafood at the Galata Bridge and in Kumkapi. Restaurants at practically every turn with rich and varied Turkish dishes. Blander, international-style fare can be found at most of the upmarket hotels. Ample opportunities for pizzas, Chinese, Japanese, French and Italian specialities, especially around Taksim Square.

Red city buses (buy a ticket before boarding). Dolmuses (shared taxis and minibuses). Allow plenty of time as traffic often comes to a standstill near the bridges. Passenger ferries ply the waterways. A modern tram runs from Sirkeci train station to Aksaray and beyond - beware pickpockets! Another historic tram service operates between Taksim Square and Tunel where an underground funicular saves you a walk up or down the steep hill. Car hire is expensive by European standards and driving is a nightmare.

Cruise up the Bosphorus to the Black Sea. The Princes' Islands (9 in all) have monasteries, lovely villas and beaches. Eyup, with its mosque. Istanbul-area tours to various ancient attractions. Tours to Anzac Cove, Troy and Ephesus.

In NW Turkey, straddling the Bosphorus Strait, which links the Black Sea to the Aegean Sea and divides European Turkey from Asian Turkey. Ataturk airport is at Yesilkoy, 15 mls SW of the centre.

Broad waterways divide the city into 3 major parts, linked by bridges and ferries. The Old City occupies a low promontory on the European side, between the Sea of Marmara and the inlet known as the Golden Horn.

Telephone Area Code: 212
Website: www.istanbultourist.com

Airport : Ataturk
Airport Code: IST
Flight time from ther U.K.: 3 hrs. 30 mins