This untidy, sprawling city has spread in all directions from the old centre (harbour, seafront promenade, shopping bazaar, Caravanserai) to the marina just to the N, the increasingly steep slopes inland, the high ground to the S and the better beach 1 ml or so beyond. Although there are pockets which are not unattractive, particularly in the old town, the overall impression is of a disastrous lack of planning. New hotels are shoehorned into tiny plots, with large, overgrown, undeveloped sections in between. Further building continues without any sign of control, and when the wind blows, it raises a storm of dust. The streets of Kusadasi aren't always in the best state of repair, either. Kusadasi is a port where many cruise ships put in and from where there is a ferry service to several Greek islands. It is the brashest and arguably the least attractive resort in Turkey. The local populace, however, are generally helpful and friendly, and it's close to some of Turkey's most famous historic sites, including Ephesus.

Perversely, it remains enormously popular with the British, which tends to confirm the adage that it's amazing what we'll put up with. Appeals mostly to crowd-loving all-nighters and "bingo, beer and chips" package holidaymakers. Though close to archaeological sites, Kusadasi is a poor choice for the cultured or high-minded.

A mix of hotels and apartments of all categories and varying quality. It is wise to check their location, however, as the ones in town are about 2 mls away from the best beach, while some are a bus ride from the main entertainments etc. There are now more than 200 hotels and pensions in a town which had practically none at the beginning of the 80s.

A small, barely adequate man-made option fairly close to the harbour and resort centre. Another better, most popular stretch called Kadinlar Beach (also known as "Ladies' Beach") is found in the nearby village of the same name, about 2 mls away. Beaches close to town are not really attractive and are nowhere near adequate for the large number of tourists here in high season.

Bargains and a good selection of crafts in the Grand Bazaar, set in the winding streets of the Caravanserai (Old Town) area. The selection is one of the largest of all Turkish resorts, and the salesmen among the most persistent.

Daytime: plenty of water sports, variety of shopping and excursions. Nightlife: wall-to-wall discos and music bars concentrated in the centre behind the harbour front. Cafes and hotel bars are marginally quieter alternatives.

Excellent choice of local cuisine, fast-food snacks and a particularly good selection of fish restaurants close to the harbour.

The usual cheap and frequent dolmus (minibus) servicing all parts of the resort.

Half/full day: Ephesus. Full day: Pamukkale, Miletus, Priene and Didim (Didyma), Bodrum; Samos Island (Greece) by boat.

Halfway down Turkey's long W coast, on the Aegean Sea. 97 mls N of Bodrum. 50 mls S of Izmir airport.

Backed by low, dry coastal hills, facing the Greek island of Samos.

Telephone Area Code: 256
Website: www.kusadasi.com

Airport : Adnam Menderes
Airport Code: ADB
Flight time from ther U.K.: 3 hrs. 30 mins